Phoenix 2000 glider propeller

Alternative as of end version Kit or ARF. This Review has had an Update. Click here. So, rant over, the Phoenix glider comes in various configurations. Prop size is 10 x 6. The folding prop spinner is red and made entirely of plastic. Personally I would recommend the kit version for longevity. Yes, it is really cheap but with a little effort can be a great model to fly.

Let's take a look at the kit version. All the items came well packaged and bagged. Hardware is also bagged up with numerous numbers of screws and bits-n-bobs. Mostly you need to scrabble through lots of little bags to find the screws that you think you need.

Servo leads are supplied plus a Y lead for the optional flaps and associated hardware. The manual is barely basic, a few monochrome photos and what is worrying, the majority of the manual concentrates on control surface direction and TX set-up. If they think the user should need this then don't sell it to that user!

Later I found that the recommended CG was spot on in my opinion. If you have assembled China models before you will know that the best policy is spread out all the bits, making sure it all looks possibly complete then screw together using the mode "common sense" or "that bit fits that bit".

Honestly, it really is easy to put together the main airframe. The blow molded fuselage is white and supposedly a composite material but is in fact a slippery plastic similar to milk bottle plastic. This type of plastic does not allow normal adhesives to stick, even velcro struggles and gives up after a period. So, to install items like the battery deck, wing securing plate and servo tray the manufacturers use small self tapping screws. This is not much of a downside because you can now remove these ply items and modify or repair to suit yourself.

The stabilser and elevator are stiffened using carbon rod. The stabiliser and fin are a push fit together using a plastic molding and secured on the underside by another plastic item through which two long self tapping screws pull the items together The fin slides into the top slot and is secured by long 2mm screws and nuts, assuming you were supplied with them! Many users say they never got any either. The rudder hinge follows the usual foamy idea and I think this item was very weak, at least on my kit.

I simply cut it carefully off, clean up the two surfaces, drilled out the holes by twisting a 3mm drill bit by hand and fitted small Robart metal pin hinges, vaselined and glued in using UHU POR. Neat hinging and no binding! Note that this can done after the fitting of the stabiliser and fin. The canopy is black plastic which is a shame. If it were clear we could fit a pilot! The canopy is a blow molded item and is a push fit on to the fuselage.

Along each side of the canopy are some little spikes which engage into holes in the side of the fuselage. I think this would be okay as long as you keep the canopy cool ie; not laying in sunlight and getting soft and flexible it may stay on. In fact on my maiden I used a small eleastic band just in case! It is smooth black but in the photo the inside is shown to highlight the little spikes. Another little bit of advice - the fuselage is very slippery and will slide around while you are working on it, most annoying.

I worked on the fuselage whilst it lay on an old blanket save me trying to follow it around! For a receiver I used an Hobbyking Orange 6 channel that I had laying around and is installed under the servo tray on a patch of velcro hook and loop For rear control surfaces I used Hitec MG servos for the rudder and elevator.

I used the stock control rods and clevises. I may replace later if need be, but for now they will suffice. Many have said "clevises unlocked, nearly lost it". I suspect they did not secure them with tubing slid over them or in my case tiny cable ties.

Come on Guys, basic stuff! The control horns are fitted using two screws used diagonally passing through pre-drilled holes a time saver into a nylon backplate. There is provision for using four screws but I did not see the need but there are plenty of screws supplied to do this. See images. Fitting the motor was a tedious task especially for those of us with big hands. The glider designed for 28mm class brushless although in fact you could fit a 35mm if pushed but I don't think that would be necessary.

In the kit you are given a plastic universal motor mount, yes you heard it right, a plastic universal motor mount and a thin metal galvansied steel plate. To install the motor you have slip the plastic mounting over your motor and leads and secure the motor to it.

Then hold the two items up against the inside of the firewall trying at the same time to align the metal plate and using the 4 x 2mm machine screws to secure fix the motor to the fuselage. In the kit version you are supplied with a spinner, plastic with a red spinner cone and blades of 10 x 6.

Note: This next item is not really so much of a review but gives you some pre-warning of issues with this model if not careful.

With the fuselage secured and wearing safety glasses always when test out new stuff I gently powered up the motor taking it up to half throttle and reading the current and wattage.

Now progressively up to full throttle. Far too much current and then a clicking noise. Power off! THe NTM motor had got quite hot and had started to melt the plastic motor securing plastic thingy. Pulling the motor out of the fuselage my suspicions were correct. This is not a good way of mounting a motor especially in a plastic fuselage too. Obviously the 10 x 6 prop is too much for the NTM motor. Now we have a distorted motor mounting too.

I used the supplied X plate and the original metal plate drilled out to line up the mounting holes and refitted to the fuselage.

Using the 10 x 6 blades now fitted to a 45mm spinner for 3. Motor just slightly warm which is to be expected as the model is not flying and pushing air over it. With that issue resolved time to assemble the wing and back to the review. Very straight forward assembly and you do have a couple of options to boot. You can keep the wings separate for easier transport or keep them locked together for a quick fit.

However, I would suggest keeping the wings in one piece which saves unscrewing the wooden joiner underneath and unlocking the top plastic fittings each time. Invariably the screw holes will open up in no time at all. The two halves are joined by a plastic tube spar internally and on the underside a wooden strip of ply which sits into a recess and secured using four 10mm long screws. Already fitted at the roots are two plastic covers which when the wing is pushed together overlock the other root of the wing.

These plastic covers also double up as the wing to fuselage fitting via four 3mm machine screws. Infocenter About us Login or Register Contact us. Sailboats Electric boats Batteries. Electric cars Glowengine cars Batteries. Choose currency:. Seaplane Warbird Civil. EDF Jet Engine. Chargers Accessories Power Supplies. Plastic Spinner Nuts Aluminium. Price :. Inventory : Availability: In stock.

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